Himalayan Cornucopia

The Centenary Farmers’ Market in Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan, is a cornucopia of fresh, organic produce:

chilies (an essential ingredient in Bhutanese cuisine), dried 

and fresh;

Sichuan pepper

sheaves of asparagus

celery,

bok choy, spring onions; fiddlehead ferns,

bamboo shoots,

plump banana flowers,

and ‘fireball’ chilies, red and green . 

But the mushrooms are the real surprise:

a profusion of chanterelles, 

and huge matsutakes, 

that grow wild in the forests.

The market is so clean 

that this sign seems unnecessary.

The fruit section is a riot of colour 

and of laughter too.

A stall nearby offers another Bhutanese staple, cured meats

and racks of black pudding.

Also on display are strings of dried yak cheese, a popular snack also known as ‘Bhutanese popcorn’. Nonno Tsesham tells us that one piece will get him through a three-hour film.

Fresh cheese and butter

are two other essential commodities.

And the local honey, collected from buckwheat meadows, is highly prized. 

Having filled a shopping bag, we carried it to the restaurant of the Folk Heritage Museum in Thimpu,

and were soon feasting on sauteed matsutakes

chanterelles in chile-cheese sauce,

stir-fried fiddlehead ferns,

and fried cheese.

A delicious meal, magically conjured up and served by the restaurant’s friendly staff.